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Is it cheaper to boil water in a kettle or on an electric hob?

Which is cheaper for my morning cuppa, the kettle or the hob? Does boiling a full kettle waste money? What about heating a big pan of water for pasta?

A kettle usually costs less for small amounts, while a hob can win for larger pans, and the reasons come down to how each one heats water and how much escapes as wasted warmth.

A close-up of a corded electric kettle on a kitchen worktop, filled only to its water level mark, with gentle steam rising from the spout and a single empty mug waiting beside it.
In this comparison
  1. Short Answer
  2. How They Compare
  3. Kettle Efficiency
  4. Why the Hob Loses Heat
  5. Cost per Litre
  6. When the Hob Wins
  7. Household Energy Use

A kettle is usually the cheaper way to boil a small amount of water, because it heats the water directly and loses very little of the energy on the way. An electric hob heats a pan, and the pan heats the water, so heat escapes to the air, into the pan body and around its base. The published efficiency figures make the gap plain: induction cooking is given as around 85% efficient, electric hobs around 75% and gas hobs around 40%1.

The cost of a single boil is small either way. Consumer guidance puts a kettle boil at a few pence, depending on the tariff, the kettle's wattage and how much water is in it2. A 3,000W kettle taking three minutes to boil is given as 5p on average, and one taking two minutes as 3p, at the prices used in that calculation; four boils a day at those figures come to around £59 and £44 a year respectively3.

The bigger and more reliable saving is not the appliance but the amount of water. Overfilling a kettle is put at around £10 a year in Great Britain and £12 in Northern Ireland4, with a separate estimate of around £10 a year in England, Scotland and Wales and £11 in Northern Ireland5. An ECO kettle designed to boil only what is required is stated to use 20% less energy than a conventional electric kettle6.

The short answer: a kettle is usually cheaper for small amounts

For a mug, a pan of pasta or a hot-water bottle, the kettle is the lower-loss appliance. It has one job, and it does it by immersing a resistive element in the water, so almost all the electricity becomes heat in the water rather than in the room. The hob has an extra step in the chain, and every step loses something.

The scale of the difference is set by the efficiency figures rather than by the wattage. Induction cooking is given as around 85% efficient, meaning only about 15% of its energy is wasted, and as using 57% less energy than gas hobs1. Electric hobs are put at around 75% and gas hobs at around 40%1. A kettle is not given a comparable percentage in the published guidance, but its direct heating method is the reason it wins on small volumes.

What a household should expect in practice is a difference of pence per boil, not pounds. The published running costs are 5p for a three-minute boil and 3p for a two-minute boil, which at four boils a day come to around £59 and £44 a year3. Those figures are from 2023 and depend on the tariff in force at the time, so they are a shape rather than a current price.

The independence point is modest but real. Boiling water is a load a household controls completely, and it can be shifted to a sunny afternoon when a home has its own generation, or reduced outright by filling the kettle to the line. It is one of the no-cost and low-cost measures that need no installer and no assessment.

How the two compare: power rating and heating element

An average electric kettle is given as having a power rating of 2,500 to 3,000 watts2. That is a high draw for a domestic appliance, but it is applied for a short time, and the guidance notes that smaller appliances such as kettles and plugged-in chargers use much less energy overall, at 1 kWh or lower7. High power and low total energy are not in conflict: the kettle is simply fast.

Consumer guidance suggests looking for rapid-boil models in the 2.5 to 3.0kWh range, designed to boil small amounts of water quickly1. The logic is that a fast boil spends less time losing heat from the water surface and the kettle body, so the shorter the boil, the smaller the standing loss.

A hob works differently. The ring heats a pan, and the pan's base transfers heat to its contents. The element or flame is not in contact with the water, so the transfer depends on the flatness of the pan base, the material and how much of the ring's area the pan covers. A pan narrower than the ring spills heat into the air; a warped base leaves an air gap.

"Gas and electric hobs are much less energy-efficient, at around 40% and 75% efficiency respectively."
Which?, energy efficient cooking, 27 January 20251

The practical consequence is that the kettle's advantage grows as the volume falls. For a single mug, the hob has to heat a pan as well as the water, and that pan then has to be washed. For a large pan of vegetables, the hob is doing work the kettle cannot do at all, and the comparison stops being meaningful.

A stainless steel electric kettle sits on a worktop beside an induction hob on which a flat-based pan of water stands squarely over one lit ring, showing the kettle heating water directly while the hob heats the pan that heats the water.
A kettle heats water directly; a hob heats a pan, which then heats the water. Image: Illustration

Efficiency: the kettle wins on heat transfer

A cutaway electric kettle on a worktop showing its coiled heating element fully submerged in the water inside, with heat flowing directly from the element into the surrounding water and only small losses through the kettle walls and steam at the spout.
An electric kettle with the element inside the water

The efficiency question is about where the energy ends up. In a kettle, the element is submerged, so the heat has nowhere to go but into the water, and the only losses are through the kettle walls and from the steam at the end of the boil. In a hob, the heat has to cross an air gap or a contact surface before it reaches the water, and some of it never makes the crossing.

Induction is the most efficient hob type on the published figures, at around 85%1. It works by inducing a current in the base of a suitable pan, so the pan itself becomes the heating element and the hob surface stays relatively cool. That removes one layer of loss compared with a radiant electric ring, and a great deal compared with a gas flame, which is given as around 40% efficient because much of the flame's heat travels around the pan rather than into it1.

The same principle appears elsewhere in home energy: direct heating of the thing you want hot is more efficient than heating something else and passing the heat on. A system boiler is described as more efficient than a combi at producing hot water, but heat is lost from the hot water cylinder over time8, and a heat-only boiler is described as less efficient than a combi for the same reason, losing heat from the stored hot water in the cylinder9. Storage always costs something.

For a household, the useful conclusion is that the kettle's advantage is structural rather than a matter of brand or wattage. A more powerful kettle boils faster, which reduces standing losses, but it does not change the fact that the element sits in the water. A more efficient hob narrows the gap, but it still has a pan in the way.

Why the hob loses heat to the air and the pan

Three losses account for most of the hob's disadvantage. The first is the air gap between the heat source and the pan, which matters most for gas, where the flame licks around the sides. The second is the pan itself: its base, walls and handle all absorb heat that is never used on the water, and a heavy pan takes longer to reach temperature. The third is the hob surface, which stays warm after the pan is removed.

The published efficiency figures are the summary of all three. Gas hobs at around 40% mean that roughly six-tenths of the energy in the flame does not reach the food or water1. Electric hobs at around 75% lose about a quarter1. Induction at around 85% loses about a sixth1. None of these is a kettle figure, because the kettle's losses are small enough that the guidance treats the appliance differently, as a low-energy device overall7.

There is a second cost that does not appear in the efficiency percentage: time. A hob running for ten minutes on high heat is given as 25p3. That figure covers the whole cooking session, not just the boil, and it shows how quickly a hob's cost accumulates compared with a kettle's few minutes.

For a household watching its electricity use, the hob is where the larger cooking load sits, and the guidance on cooking points to appliances that use less power and less time for small jobs. Cooking in a microwave or air fryer is described as cheaper than an oven because it uses less power and takes less time10, and using a microwave for heating or reheating small amounts of food is described as quicker and cheaper than the oven11. The same logic applies to boiling water: match the appliance to the volume.

Cost per litre: how the numbers work out

There is no published figure for the cost of boiling exactly one litre, and the guidance is explicit that the exact amount depends on the electricity tariff, the kettle's wattage and how much water is filled2. What the published figures do give is a set of worked examples at a stated unit rate, which show the arithmetic without pretending to be a current price.

The unit rate used in the cooking calculation is 0.34 GBP per kWh1. At that rate, a 3,000W kettle boiling for three minutes is given as 5p on average, and for two minutes as 3p; four boils a day for a year come to around £59 and £44 respectively3. Those are the figures to work from, and they carry the date of the calculation.

ExampleTimeCost per boilFour boils a day, for a year
3,000W kettle3 minutes5p on averagearound £593
3,000W kettle2 minutes3p on averagearound £443
Hob, high heat10 minutes25pnot given3

The waste from overfilling is the figure most often quoted, and it is consistent across two independent sources. Boiling more water than is needed for one cup is put at around £10 a year in Great Britain and £12 in Northern Ireland4, and separately at around £10 a year in England, Scotland and Wales and £11 in Northern Ireland5. The two estimates differ slightly in how they are framed, but they agree on the order of magnitude: a few pounds a year, not tens of pounds.

An ECO kettle that only boils the amount of water required is stated to use 20% less energy than a conventional electric kettle6. That is a maker-independent figure for the category rather than a single model, and it describes the saving from boiling less, not from a more efficient element.

A cordless electric jug kettle on a kitchen worktop, seen close up, with a single mug beside it and a clearly visible internal or side fill line showing the water level set to just one mug's worth.
The published savings come from the fill line, not from the appliance's wattage. Image: Illustration

When the hob can match or beat the kettle

A close-up isometric view of a large pan of water sitting on an induction hob ring, with the hob surface shown heating the pan base directly while the surrounding hob surface stays cool and unlit.
A pan of water heating on an induction hob

The hob wins on volume and on purpose. A kettle cannot cook, and for a large pan of water the hob is the only option. Where the hob is already running for a meal, adding water to an existing pan costs nothing extra in standing losses, because the ring is hot and the pan is already on it.

Induction narrows the gap more than any other hob type. At around 85% efficiency, with only about 15% of its energy wasted, and using 57% less energy than gas hobs1, an induction ring delivers most of its energy to the pan. For a large volume, where the pan is well matched to the ring and the water is needed as part of a meal, the difference between induction and a kettle becomes small enough that convenience decides it.

The comparison also shifts with the tariff. A household on a time-of-use tariff that makes electricity cheap overnight or in the middle of a sunny day is buying the same kilowatt-hours at a different price, and the appliance choice matters less than when the load runs. The published evidence on time-of-use tariffs is about heating rather than kettles, but it shows the size of the effect: a heat pump paired with a time-of-use tariff is given as saving £280 versus a boiler12, and one tariff is given as saving more than £500 for a SCOP 4.0 heat pump compared with running a gas boiler13.

For a household with its own solar panels, the arithmetic changes again, because the marginal cost of a midday boil is the export price forgone rather than the import price paid. That is a question about generation and storage rather than about kettles, and it belongs with the wider decisions in planning a route to household energy independence.

What this means for household energy use

Boiling water is a small load with a large behavioural component. The appliance choice is worth pence per boil; the fill level is worth around £10 a year in Great Britain and £12 in Northern Ireland4, or around £10 in England, Scotland and Wales and £11 in Northern Ireland5. The second figure is the one a household can act on today, with no purchase.

Set against the rest of a home's energy use, the kettle is minor. The published comparisons that matter are about heating, where the sums run to hundreds of pounds. A heat pump is given as around three to four times more efficient than a gas boiler14, and as using 3 to 4 times less energy to provide the same heat15. Running costs are described as typically lower than those of traditional gas boilers16, though the same guidance notes that a poorly performing system changes the picture. One analysis puts a typical home's annual saving from replacing a gas boiler with a heat pump at £28012, while another finds most families seeing bills increase slightly, by £32 a year on average17.

The independence lens is the same for a kettle as for a heat pump. Both draw from the grid unless a home generates its own, and both are exposed to the unit price of electricity, which is given as around four times the unit price of gas at the standard price-capped rate18. Reducing the waste from overfilling cuts the size of the load; it does not change where the energy comes from. For a household working through the order of measures, the kettle sits with the behaviour and habit changes rather than with the fabric or the heating system, and it is one of the few measures that costs nothing and pays back immediately.

Sources18 cited
  1. Energy efficient cooking, Uswitch, 27 January 2025
  2. Kettle running costs, Smart Energy GB, 17 August 2026
  3. Save money using your electrical appliances, Citizens Advice, 10 May 2023
  4. Energy mistakes to avoid, Energy Saving Trust, 15 October 2025
  5. Appliances: how much do yours cost to run, Confused.com, 18 December 2025
  6. Home appliances, Energy Saving Trust, 20 May 2026
  7. Uswitch guide to kWh, Uswitch, 26 August 2026
  8. Boilers, Energy Saving Trust, 20 May 2026
  9. What are the different types of boiler, Which?, 16 September 2025
  10. Preparing for winter, National Energy Action, 14 October 2025
  11. How to save energy in the kitchen, Home Energy Scotland, April 2025
  12. What it really costs to heat a home in the UK with a heat pump, Carbon Brief, 30 January 2026
  13. Heat pump calculator, Which?, 30 April 2025
  14. The seventh carbon budget, Climate Change Committee, 26 February 2025
  15. Domestic heating technology options, Nesta, 3 February 2025
  16. What impact can heat pumps have in domestic heating today, GOV.UK, 21 November 2023
  17. Turning up the heat, Resolution Foundation, 10 April 2025
  18. Air source heat pump costs and savings, Which?, 14 April 2026

Questions

Answers here, and more on their own pages.

How much does it cost to boil a litre of water in a kettle?

There is no single published figure for a litre. Consumer guidance puts a boil at a few pence, depending on the tariff, the kettle's wattage and how much water is in it. A 3,000W kettle taking three minutes to boil is given as 5p on average, and two minutes as 3p, at the prices used in that 2023 calculation. Four boils a day at those figures come to around £59 and £44 a year respectively.

Does a faster hob ring boil water more cheaply?

Not by itself. A higher-powered ring delivers heat faster, but the cost depends on how much of that heat reaches the water rather than the pan and the surrounding air. Gas hobs are given as around 40% efficient and electric hobs around 75%, against induction at around 85%. Speed shortens the time the ring is on, which reduces standing losses, but it does not change the efficiency of the transfer.

Is it cheaper to boil a full kettle or just the water I need?

Boiling only what is needed is the cheaper option, and the published savings are modest but repeated. Guidance puts the waste from overfilling at around £10 a year in Great Britain and £12 in Northern Ireland, with a separate estimate of around £10 a year in England, Scotland and Wales and £11 in Northern Ireland. An ECO kettle designed to boil only the amount required is stated to use 20% less energy than a conventional electric kettle.

Does an induction hob change the comparison?

It narrows the gap but does not close it on the published efficiency figures. Induction cooking is given as around 85% efficient, with only about 15% of its energy wasted, and as using 57% less energy than gas hobs. A kettle still heats the water directly with no pan in between, so for a single mug or a small pan the kettle remains the lower-loss route.

How can I measure my kettle's power rating?

The rating is normally printed on the base or the underside of the kettle, and an average electric kettle is given as 2,500 to 3,000 watts. Consumer guidance suggests looking for rapid-boil models in the 2.5 to 3.0kWh range, designed to boil small amounts quickly. A plug-in energy monitor gives the actual draw in use, which will differ from the label figure.

Is a hot water tap cheaper than a kettle?

The evidence here covers kettles, hobs and cooking appliances, not instant hot water taps, so no comparison can be made from it. A boiling-water tap holds water at temperature in a tank, which means standing losses around the clock, and it draws electricity like any other appliance. Its running cost depends on the unit, the set temperature and the tariff, and would need to be measured in the home.

Why does a hob lose so much heat?

A hob heats a pan, and the pan heats the water. Heat escapes to the air around the pan, into the pan body itself and through the base contact. Gas hobs lose more because much of the flame's heat goes around the pan rather than into it, which is why they are given as around 40% efficient against around 75% for electric hobs and around 85% for induction.

What does this mean for a household's energy independence?

Boiling water is a small, controllable load. It draws from the grid or from a home's own solar and battery, and the choice between kettle and hob changes the size of that load rather than where the energy comes from. Cutting the waste from overfilling is a no-cost measure, and it sits alongside the larger decisions about heating, insulation and generation.

How much does a heat pump and EV cut reliance on imported energy?How much energy can an eco kettle save?Do heat pumps need a larger hot water tank or coil?Can a home battery run a heat pump or charge an EV?How much does it cost to install an air source heat pump in a flat?Will my bills be lower with a heat pump in Scotland?